Hedhikaa: A Guide to Maldivian Short Eats
Walk into any Maldivian tea shop and you will find the counter stacked with small savoury and sweet snacks known collectively as hedhikaa, or short eats. Paired with sweet black tea, they are the fuel of daily life in the islands — an afternoon institution as much as a food category.
The savoury classics
- Bajiya — triangular fried pastries filled with a mixture of smoked tuna, coconut and onion, a cousin of the samosa adapted to island ingredients.
- Gulha — small round dough balls with a spiced tuna and coconut filling, deep-fried until golden.
- Masroshi — a flatbread pocket stuffed with mas huni-style tuna and coconut, cooked on a griddle.
- Keemia — fried fish rolls, crisp on the outside and savoury within.
- Kulhi boakibaa — a dense, savoury fish cake baked in trays and cut into squares, a fixture at gatherings.
The sweet side
Sweet hedhikaa balance the fish-heavy savouries. Look for zileybee (a bright, syrupy fried sweet), foni boakibaa (a sweet baked cake often flavoured with coconut), handulu bondibai (sweet sticky rice), and bondi (white coconut sticks). Bananas and other local fruit often round out the offering.
Tea shop culture
The sai hotaa, or tea shop, is where hedhikaa belong. These simple cafés serve glasses of hot, sweet black tea alongside trays of short eats from morning to night. Traditionally they have been social hubs where men gather to talk between prayers and work; visitors are welcome, and pointing at what you want is a perfectly acceptable way to order. Prices are modest and portions small, so trying several kinds in one sitting is normal.
Hedhikaa at home and at celebrations
Maldivian households prepare hedhikaa for special occasions, from Eid celebrations to family gatherings, and the afternoon tea spread is a point of pride. Recipes pass down through families, with each cook's bajiya filling or boakibaa texture slightly their own.
Tips for visitors
On local islands such as Maafushi, Dhigurah or Thulusdhoo, seek out a busy tea shop mid-afternoon for the freshest selection. Most fillings are tuna-based, so ask before assuming anything is vegetarian. And do as locals do: order tea first, then work through the tray a piece at a time.
FAQ
What does hedhikaa mean?
Hedhikaa is the Dhivehi term for the family of small snacks — fried, steamed and baked — served in Maldivian tea shops, often translated as short eats.
Are hedhikaa vegetarian-friendly?
Mostly not. The majority of savoury hedhikaa contain tuna. Sweet items such as boakibaa and bondi are usually fish-free, but it is always worth asking.
When do Maldivians eat hedhikaa?
Any time, but late afternoon tea is the classic hedhikaa moment, when tea shops are at their liveliest.
